The inventor and his revolutionary machine

Joseph Marie Jacquard was born on July 7, 1752, in Lyon, France, into a conservative Catholic family of weavers. Growing up in the textile trade, young Joseph witnessed firsthand the gruelling labour required for complex pattern weaving. 

Before Jacquard’s invention, creating ornate fabrics required two people: a skilled weaver and an assistant called a ‘draw boy’. These children, often aged 6-8, would spend gruelling hours lifting heavy warps that weighed up to half their body weight. This dangerous work produced perhaps only an inch of fabric per day.

The revolutionary breakthrough

In 1804, Joseph Marie Jacquard patented his revolutionary loom attachment, which used punched cards to control the weaving pattern. Each card corresponded to one row of the design, with holes punched to indicate which warp threads should
be raised.

This innovation was immediately recognised for its potential. On
April 12, 1805, Emperor Napoleon and Empress Josephine visited Lyon to view Jacquard's new loom. Three days later, Napoleon granted the patent to the city of Lyon.

The introduction of the Jacquard loom faced fierce resistance from silk weavers who feared job losses. In Lyon, workers not only burned the machines but also attacked Jacquard himself. However, by 1812, 11,000 Jacquard looms were in use across France.

The Jacquard technique dramatically reduced the cost of intricately designed woven fabrics, making luxurious textiles like damask and brocade accessible to average people for the first time.

Legacy in modern computing

Jacquard's punched-card system played a crucial role in the development of computing. Charles Babbage adopted the concept for his Analytical Engine, and Herman Hollerith used a variation for the 1890 U.S. Census.

Punched cards remained the primary mechanism for operating electronic computers until digital input emerged in the mid-20th century.

Production is concentrated in several key regions worldwide, with China leading as the largest manufacturer of finished jacquard textiles. This dominance stems from China's position as the world's biggest producer of silk and cotton, combined with significant technological advancements in computerised weaving equipment.

India is the world's largest producer of raw cotton fibre, while Australia supplies high-quality wool.

Italy maintains a prestigious position in luxury jacquard production, particularly for high-end silk jacquards used in fashion and interior design.

Other notable producing regions include parts of Europe and Turkey, each specialising in jacquard manufacturing from traditional
techniques to modern industrial production.

Where is our Silk Jacquard fabric collection produced?

Our collection comes from Italian manufacturers who use eco-friendly dyes and low-impact production methods. Many also follow strict rules to reduce water and energy waste. By choosing these makers, we support quality craftsmanship and a cleaner future.

Traditional production methods

The first Jacquard looms used punch cards to control the pattern. These cards helped guide the threads, making detailed designs possible. This was a big step forward for the industry at the time.

Modern computerised production

Today’s silk jacquard production has evolved significantly.

Digital pattern creation

Modern producers control the weave with sophisticated computer programs, allowing for faster output, finer detail, creative freedom, and capacity for even more complex designs than ever before..

Advanced loom technology

Contemporary computerised Jacquard looms reduce the need for human input, making weaving jacquard fabrics more efficient and cost-effective.

Silk preparation process

• High-quality silk fibres are carefully selected and prepared
• Threads are dyed to precise colour specifications
• Multiple coloured threads may be used to create complex patterns

Weaving process

The computerised loom arranges silk yarns into complex webs while producing the desired pattern. Some looms are capable of weaving multiple pieces simultaneously.

There are numerous types, each with its unique uses. Jacquard is an umbrella term encompassing several distinct fabric types, all unified by their complex woven patterns.

Here are the main types you'll encounter:

1. Silk Brocade

Brocade features raised, embroidered-like patterns with colourful designs, often incorporating metallic threads. Unlike damask, brocades are not reversible and typically have floating threads on the back.

2. Silk Damask

Damask is characterised by its reversible, patterned weave, with designs appearing on both sides. It's typically flatter than brocade and often features a lustrous finish from satin weaving techniques.

3. Silk Matelassé

Matelassé features raised, puffy, quilted textures designed to imitate hand-quilting. This double-cloth weave creates distinctive blistered effects.

4. Silk Brocatelle

Brocatelle is similar to brocade but with more complex patterns featuring distinctive raised, puffed surfaces. It is usually heavier and more durable than standard brocade.

Here are some silk jacquard materials available in our store:

Silk Georgette Jacquard

A sumptuous fabric with a draped finish and beautiful design. The material is one of the most popular picks for formal wear, such as
dresses and gowns.

Silk Lamé Jacquard

The fabric is woven with metallic yarn, such as silver. It has a unique metallic shine, usually with shiny and matt reverse sides.

Lamé Jacquard offers durability with slightly stretch properties.

Just like there are many ways to weave silk, there are also different ways to use the Jacquard loom with it. This mix of methods creates many fabric styles, giving designers an array of options for patterns and products.

Surface finish options

Silk jacquard can achieve glossy or matte finishes depending on the finishing treatments applied. The fabric may also range from entirely opaque to subtly sheer, making it versatile for evening wear and special occasions.

Texture and feel

• The combination of silk fibre and loom weave creates a soft and pleasant fabric
• Patterns create a decorative finish as well as adding visual depth and luxury appeal
• Many of these fabrics feature attractive reverse patterns that designers often incorporate for unique aesthetic effects


Comfort and wearability

Silk is naturally lightweight and breathable, characteristics that perfectly complement jacquard weaving. This makes silk jacquard particularly suitable for:

• Summer clothing, due to its airy, breathable design
• Year-round wear when blended with other fibres
• Formal occasions requiring both elegance and comfort

Structural benefits

• Raised and textured patterns which create visual depth and tactile interest depending on the specific weaving technique
• Enhanced durability through the jacquard weave, which adds structural integrity to the silk fibres
• Dimensional stability ensures woven patterns resist distortion better than printed designs

Comparison with other silk weaves

Unlike plain silk weaves, jacquard silk offers: 

• Integrated patterns that won't fade, crack, or peel like printed designs
• Enhanced visual interest through varied textures and light reflection
• Versatile design possibilities from subtle tone-on-tone effects to bold multicolour patterns

Fashion and apparel applications

The elegant and luscious style makes this fabric perfect for clothing and accessories. Because the design is woven into the silk and not printed on later, you can use it for unique styling ideas. There are jacquard silks in single colours, floral prints, and with stripes and polka dots. This range of designs means it’s a good choice for all clothing items and perfect for sophisticated garments like:
     
• Dresses and gowns, which represent the most popular application, offering refined looks with excellent draping qualities
• Cocktail dresses, which benefit from the fabric’s ability to provide structure while maintaining feminine silhouettes
• Evening coats, which often showcase reverse patterns for unique design elements and styling
• Bridal wear, which gains texture and visual interest without overwhelming details

Accessories and details

• Bow ties and neckties excel in formal menswear applications
• Scarves and wraps create luxury accessories with reversible styling options for versatile wear
• Evening bags and clutches serve as small goods that showcase intricate patterns
• Formal sashes and belts provide elegant options for ceremonial and special occasion uses


Versatile garment options

• Skirts and trousers as intricately patterned separates for special occasions
• Blouses and tops ranging from subtle work-appropriate pieces to statement evening wear
• Jackets and blazers provide structured pieces that benefit from its stability

Seasonal considerations

Spring and summer applications

Most silk Jacquard pieces work excellently for warmer weather due to silk's natural breathability and temperature-regulating properties.

Year-round versatility

When blended with cotton or other fibres, this fabric can transition across seasons, making it an excellent choice for diverse wardrobes.

Understanding care requirements

The care instructions for your selected fabric, depend on its specific construction but generally follow the same principles as those for other silk products. Always check the care label on your garment, as requirements may vary depending on fibre content and any additional materials sed. Silk is a natural, delicate fabric that requires extra care and attention.

Reading care labels

‘Dry clean only’ vs ‘Dry clean’

Items marked "Dry Clean Only" should never be washed at home, as this typically means the garment isn't designed to be submerged in water. However, items labelled simply "Dry Clean" can often be carefully hand-washed, although we recommend you dry clean these as well. We do not recommend you hand-wash any of your silk jacquard garments.

Preventing damage

• Avoid direct sunlight exposure, which can fade colours and damage fibres
• Don't use wooden hangers when fabric is wet, as wood can stain
• Lay flat on clean white towels for optimal drying

Pressing and ironing

Safe ironing practices

If ironing is necessary, use low temperature settings and place a cotton cloth between the iron and fabric to prevent direct contact. Always turn the garment inside out and iron the inside of the fabric, and consider using the iron's steam function while hovering above the fabric rather than direct contact.

Alternative methods

Steaming is often preferable to ironing, but ensure your steamer is designed for delicate fabrics and doesn't get too hot. 

Storage recommendations

Optimal storage conditions

Store silk jacquard in cool, dark, and dry places with adequate air circulation. As a natural fibre, silk must breathe, so avoid tightly sealed plastic bags.

Long-term care

• Use breathable garment bags for extended storage
• Ensure items are clean before storage
• Check periodically for any signs of pest activity or environmental damage

Silk Jacquard vs Cotton Jacquard

Silk Jacquard advantages

• Its feel and appearance make it the most luxurious type of jacquard fabric available
• The natural lustre provides inherent shine that enhances pattern visibility and elegance
• Its breathability offers superior moisture-wicking and temperature regulation properties
• The draping qualities deliver exceptional flow and movement in garments

Cotton Jacquard characteristics

Cotton jacquard fabrics usually have less complex patterns and rank among the least expensive textiles made using Jacquard looms. While more affordable and easier to care for, cotton lacks silk's natural lustre and fluid drape.

Silk Jacquard vs Wool Jacquard

Silk benefits

• Its lightweight feel makes it great for warm weather and layering
• The smooth texture provides a more refined hand feel compared to other fibres
• The versatile applications make it a suitable fabric for both apparel and home decor

Wool Jacquard applications

Due to its insulating properties, Wool Jacquard is commonly used for tapestries and cold-weather garments like sweaters and gloves. 

Silk Jacquard vs Synthetic Jacquard

Silk quality advantages

• Silk is one of the most environmentally friendly of the options, as silkworm cultivation requires no pesticides or fertilisers
• Natural silk fibres offer longevity when given proper care and maintenance
• It provides superior breathability and moisture management compared to synthetic alternatives

Synthetic limitations

While synthetic jacquard is less expensive, it's considered low-quality and has a negative environmental impact due to toxic chemical production processes.

Our heritage and expertise

As holders of a Royal Warrant, Joel & Son Fabrics brings over 70 years of expertise to our collection’s curation. Our commitment to quality ensures every meter meets the highest standards.

Italian craftsmanship partnership

Our collection features exclusively Italian-manufactured fabrics from artisans who demonstrate an unwavering commitment to environmental responsibility through their use of eco-friendly dyes and low-impact production methods. These craftspeople bring generations of weaving knowledge to every piece, seamlessly blending traditional expertise with modern technology.

Each fabric reflects rigorous quality control standards that ensure consistency. By partnering with these artisans, we guarantee fabrics that embody sustainable practices and the finest craftsmanship traditions that Italy's textile industry is renowned for worldwide.

Browse our carefully curated selection featuring:

• Classic damask patterns in sophisticated colourways
• Modern geometric designs for contemporary applications
• Floral motifs are perfect for romantic, feminine pieces
• Abstract patterns are ideal for artistic, avant-garde projects

Seasonal collections

We regularly introduce new patterns and colours to reflect current fashion trends while maintaining our commitment to timeless elegance.

Sampling and selection

Order a minimum of 1m of fabric to ensure an accurate representation of a fabric's colour, texture, pattern, weight, and handle. Alternatively, please feel free to visit the Joel & Son Fabrics store, where one of our experienced sales professionals will happily provide you with samples free of charge.

Joel & Son rewards program

Join our loyalty program to earn points on fabric purchases and access exclusive benefits, including early access to new collections and special member pricing.

Browse Joel & Son's beautiful silk jacquard fabric collection here.


Need additional assistance?

Contact our expert team if you have more questions about this fabric or need help selecting the perfect material for your project. We're always happy to assist with any enquiry and provide the personalised service that has made Joel & Son a trusted name in luxury fabrics for over seven decades.