Super 150s? Pure wool? Wool stretch? Mohair mix? What does it all mean? Choosing a suit colour is hard enough, but choosing the right wool fabric for your suit can be even trickier. Here we are going to explain a little more about each of these common suiting terms and how to get it right.
Wool is the most popular choice of fabric for suiting, with 60% of all produced wool being used for clothing. You might find Super 100, 120’s, 150’s and so on, on some wool that you come across during your fabric shopping. You might also, like many people, look at this number and not understand the deeper meaning behind it and choose to ignore it. Well, ignore no longer! We are going to break down all this suiting jargon for you here.
First & foremost, the term ‘super’ in this sense originates in England as a means of proving the best, purest wool, and refers to the fineness of the wool fibre. Essentially, the higher super the number, the better quality and finer the fabric is. The finer the wool fibre, the more of it is required, resulting in a tighter weave, altogether better quality. For this reason, higher super numbers are usually more expensive.
Brioni Super 150's wool suiting - light, fine & luxurious
Something to remember as well is that super numbers can apply to any fabric with at least 45% wool in it. Some fabrics might mix wool with silk for a more luxurious feel, some might mix elastane for a slight stretch, and then there are also the rare fibre options to mix such as mohair and alpaca for an altogether more luxurious cloth.
Alexander McQueen Blue Wool/Mohair Blended Suit
So, with all of that in mind, how do you choose the right super wool for your suit?
It might seem like an obvious answer – the higher the Super number, the better the wool. However, there are other factors to consider too. You should always consider how often you’ll be wearing your suit. The higher Super numbers are usually lighter cloths with more wrinkle, therefore more suited to the spring/summer months. Happy super shopping!
Holland & Sherry Super 150's Wool, Black Pinstripe
Valentino Super 130's wool/silk mix, for a more luxurious feel
Valentino Wool/Mohair mix in navy